Food Miles: 2010
The Food Miles book developed out of a desire to more clearly engage with something of Hackney’s diversity and multi-cultural make-up. I identified the old Roman road, the A10, which stretches from Kingsland Road at the southern tip of Hackney, to Stamford Hill at the northern-most, as something of a ‘spine’ of the borough. It is a stretch of road that offers multi-sensory evidence of Hackney’s diverse population—from the pocket of Vietnamese restaurants at the bottom of Kingsland Road, through the Turkish community in Dalston and Stoke Newington, up to the Jewish shops at Stamford hill. Whilst mapping the street, and recording images of interest, I became acutely aware of just how many of the commercial premises are restaurants or grocery shops, with the majority quite clearly defined in the type of cuisine or products they sell. Food is clearly an importnat part of maintaining one’s identity, particularly amongst diasporic communities (Blunt & Dowling 2006: 212). The Centre for Migration and Diaspora Studies (2009), suggest that, for some migrants, food and drink have a key role in maintaining kin, social and cultural ties brought from other places; to build new groups on shared cultural or social identity, but also to define and create divisions between immigrants themselves and other migrants or ‘host’ groups. In this way food becomes what we might call an identity marker.
Interspersed within the reasonably clearly demarcated Turkish, Vietnamese and Jewish gastronomic territories is the usual raft of Chinese takeaways, fried chicken joints, greasy spoons, curry houses, and the ubiquitous Irish pub. However, there are also other countries and cultures represented along this three mile stretch of road, for example, Ethiopian, Polish, West Indian, and Brazilian. Some of these communities have been established in the area for decades, sometimes arriving as refugees following political unrest in their own countries, or sometimes through labour migration due to economic downturns in their country of birth. During this time, to a greater or lesser degree, they have established communities within Hackney, of which, the food shops, cafés and restaurants provide not only a focal point in some cases, but also a visible reminder of the diversity of the borough.
However, if one is to really experience these establishments, one needs to get beyond the visual. To engage with a fuller experiential exploration of these three miles, one needs to eat and drink, and then eat and drink some more. In the three miles between the beginning of Kingsland Road and the junction at Stamford Hill, there are over 150 eating and drinking establishments, as well as countless grocery shops, so I sampled a range that included all the different communities that are represented. As some communities are more established than others, they have developed a larger infrastructure within Hackney, and therefore have a greater number of restaurants and shops. The Turkish cafés and restaurants, for example, numbered over thirty. I therefore chose to visit these larger communities more than once, both to experience a range of different dishes and types of establishment. The only other enforced constraint was my vegetarianism. This meant I was unable to eat some dishes that could be said to be traditional, like Caribbean jerk chicken or Turkish tripe soup, but I was always able to find something that I was able to eat or drink.
My method was essentially that of the ethnographer, visiting restaurants, notebook, pen and camera in hand, recording my experience of the surroundings, the food and drink, and my interaction with staff or fellow diners. As I undertook my journey I learnt about the diversity of Hackney, and about myself and my own culture, as it, and I, were often sharply reflected in difference—from race, religion and gender, through to music, strange tasting drinks and unusual breakfasts. The visual outcome of the book reflects this complex, global yet local reading of place by embedding related passages of text inspired by the experiences of eating. The design interventions used within the format of the book explore strategies of montage writing and offer the reader an interactive, spatial experience that, through the three types of numbering/navigational systems, allows both local and global readings of place.